“Destruction was its destiny, but resurrection was its will.”
From the silent, frozen peaks of the Himalayas, our journey descends to the roaring waves of the Arabian coastline. Here, in Prabhas Patan, Gujarat, stands a temple that is not just a structure of stone, but a symbol of India’s undying spirit. This is Somnath, the “Lord of the Moon.”
Somnath is known as the gateway to India’s ancient wealth and the first victim of a relentless cycle of invasion. But the true story of Somnath goes deeper than gold and plunder. It is a story of a shrine that refused to die—a temple that was destroyed seventeen times, only to rise again, grander and more defiant, every single time.
Explore the legends, the mysteries, and the history of the eternal shrine that guards India’s western shores.
The Legend: A Temple Built by the Moon
While history books tell us of kings and conquerors, mythology tells us of a celestial beginning.
Legend has it that Chandra, the Moon God, was once cursed by his father-in-law, Daksha Prajapati, to lose his luster and fade into nothingness (waning). Terrified of losing his existence, Chandra came to this very spot at the confluence of the Saraswati river and the sea to worship Lord Shiva.
He performed severe penance for thousands of years. Pleased by his devotion, Lord Shiva appeared and lifted the curse, allowing the moon to wax and wane in a perpetual cycle of time. In gratitude, Chandra built a golden temple here, dedicating it to Shiva as Somnath—the Lord (Nath) of the Moon (Soma).
It is believed that the temple has been rebuilt by different divine figures through the ages:
- By the Moon God in Gold.
- By Ravana in Silver.
- By Lord Krishna in Sandalwood.
- By Bhimdev Solanki in Stone.
This mythological cycle of rebuilding mirrors the temple’s actual history—a structure that transforms but never disappears.
The Cycle of Destruction and Rebirth
Somnath’s location on the coast made it a thriving port and a repository of immense wealth. Its vaults were filled with diamonds, pearls, and gold offered by devotees from across the subcontinent. Naturally, this attracted the gaze of invaders.
The most infamous attack came in 1026 AD by Mahmud of Ghazni. He looted the temple, stripped it of its fabulous riches, and destroyed the sanctum. But what Ghazni did not understand was that Somnath was not just a building; it was an idea.
Within years, the Indian kings—specifically the Paramara King Bhoja and Solanki King Bhima I—rebuilt it.
This cycle repeated for centuries. Alauddin Khilji’s army destroyed it in 1299. The Gujarat Sultanate destroyed it in 1395 and 1451. The Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb ordered its complete destruction in 1706. Yet, after every fall, the chant of “Har Har Mahadev” returned to the shores of Prabhas.
The Modern Resurrection: The Iron Man’s Vow
The magnificent temple you see today is a modern marvel with a soul of antiquity. Its resurrection is credited to Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel, the “Iron Man of India.”
On November 13, 1947, just months after India’s independence, Sardar Patel visited the ruins of Somnath. Visibly moved by the state of the ancient shrine, he went to the sea, took water in his hand, and pledged that the temple would be rebuilt to its original glory. Despite political opposition, he stood firm, stating that the reconstruction of Somnath was a matter of national honor.
The current structure was built in the Chalukya style (Kailash Mahameru Prasad style) and was completed in 1951. It stands today not just as a place of worship, but as a monument to national integration and resilience.
Mysteries and Untold Stories
1. The Mystery of the Baan Stambh (Arrow Pillar)
On the sea-facing wall of the temple complex stands a solitary pillar known as the Baan Stambh. Atop it is an arrow pointing towards the ocean. The inscription on the pillar is mind-boggling.
It reads in Sanskrit:
“Aasamudrant Dakshin Dhruv Paryant Abadhita Jyotirarg”
(From this point to the South Pole, there is no obstruction of land).
This means that if you were to draw a straight line from this pillar to the South Pole (Antarctica), you would not cross a single piece of land—no islands, no continents, nothing.
This fact is geographically accurate. But here is the mystery: This pillar is believed to have existed since the 6th century (or even earlier). How did ancient Indian astronomers and geographers know, over a thousand years ago, that the path to the South Pole was completely unobstructed? It remains one of the great unsolved puzzles of ancient Indian science.
2. The Legend of the Syamantaka Gem
Fans of Krishna mythology will know the story of the Syamantaka Mani, a divine gem that could produce gold daily. Legend says this gem was associated with the Sun God and brought immense prosperity—but also deadly conflict—to its owner.
Many believe that the “alchemy” or immense wealth of the original Somnath temple was linked to this gem being hidden within its vaults. It is said that Lord Krishna, who built the sandalwood version of the temple, may have entrusted the gem to the temple’s care to end the conflicts it caused among his people.
3. Krishna’s Final Journey: Dehotsarg Tirth
Just a short distance from the main Somnath temple lies Bhalka Tirth. This is the poignant site where Lord Krishna’s earthly journey ended.
According to the Mahabharata, after the Kurukshetra war, the Yadav clan turned against each other in a drunken civil war. A sorrowful Krishna sat under a Banyan tree at this spot to meditate. A hunter named Jara, mistaking Krishna’s pink foot for a deer, shot a poisoned arrow that struck him in the heel.
Krishna forgave the hunter and then walked to the banks of the Hiran river (at a spot called Dehotsarg, literally “leaving the body”) to shed his mortal form. Visiting Somnath is incomplete without paying respects at these quiet, melancholy sites that mark the end of the Dvapara Yuga.
4. The Contribution of Ahilyabai Holkar
While Sardar Patel built the new temple, we must not forget the woman who kept the flame alive during the darkest times. In 1783, Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, finding the main temple in ruins and under control of hostile forces, built a small, underground temple adjacent to the main site.
She installed a Shiva Lingam there to ensure that worship could continue in secret, safe from the gaze of invaders. This temple, known as Old Somnath or Ahilyabai Temple, still stands today. It is a humble but powerful reminder of the devotion that preserved Sanatan Dharma through the centuries.
Practical Guide: How to Get to Somnath
Somnath is well-connected and much easier to access than Himalayan shrines like Kedarnath.
1. By Air
- Nearest Airport: Diu Airport (DIU) is about 63 km away (approx. 1.5 hours by taxi). It has flights connecting to Mumbai and Ahmedabad.
- Major Airport: Rajkot Airport (Hirasar) is about 190-200 km away. It has better connectivity to major Indian cities like Delhi and Bangalore.
2. By Train
- Vande Bharat Express: The Ahmedabad (Sabarmati) – Jamnagar/Okha Vande Bharat Express serves as a vital high-speed link for coastal Gujarat.
- The Benefit: Travelers can reach Rajkot at high speed from Ahmedabad. Rajkot serves as the primary gateway for the Somnath circuit, from where a smooth 3-4 hour drive or a connecting local train takes you to the “Phoenix of the Arabian Sea.”
- Veraval Junction: This is the nearest railway station, located just 5-7 km from the temple. It is well-connected with direct trains from Ahmedabad, Rajkot, Mumbai, and other cities (e.g., the Somnath Express).
- Somnath Station: There is a smaller station called Somnath itself, but Veraval has more frequent connections.
3. By Road
Gujarat has some of the best roads in India.
- Ahmedabad to Somnath: Approx. 400 km (7-8 hours).
- Dwarka to Somnath: Many pilgrims combine these two sites. It is a scenic coastal drive of about 230 km (4-5 hours) via Porbandar.
4. Best Time to Visit
- Winter (October to March): The weather is pleasant and cool, perfect for standing in lines and exploring the complex.
- Mahashivratri (Feb/March): The temple comes alive with massive celebrations. However, expect huge crowds.
- Kartik Purnima (Nov): A large fair is held here, which is a culturally vibrant time to visit.
- Summer: It can get very hot and humid, so avoid April-June if possible.
5. Temple Tips
- The Sound and Light Show: Do not miss the evening Sound and Light Show (7:30 PM to 8:30 PM) in the temple courtyard. It narrates the history of the temple’s destruction and resurrection dramatically, with the ocean waves crashing in the background.
- Electronics: Mobile phones, cameras, and smartwatches are strictly prohibited inside the main temple. There are free lockers available at the entrance. Photography is strictly prohibited within the Temple grounds.
- Dress Code: Respectful attire is required. Men should avoid shorts; women should dress modestly.
Conclusion
Somnath is more than a destination; it is an emotion. As you stand in the temple courtyard, with the saffron flag fluttering against the blue sky and the Arabian Sea pounding the walls below, you realize that you are standing on ground that refused to surrender.
It teaches us that buildings may fall, but faith does not. Somnath is the eternal phoenix of India—a beacon that has burned bright for millennia and will continue to shine for millennia to come.
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