The moment I stepped into Osaka, the air itself felt different – charged with a palpable energy, almost seasoned with the promise of culinary adventure. This wasn’t just another sprawling Japanese metropolis; this was a city where food is more than nourishment, it’s a vibrant, pulsating way of life. I’d heard the legendary monikers: “Japan’s Kitchen,” a title earned through centuries of being the nation’s commercial and gastronomic heart, and the more intriguing, slightly daunting “town of eating to death”. It was this latter phrase, kuidaore – the glorious act of eating until you drop, or perhaps until your wallet gives out – that truly captured my imagination. It wasn’t just a catchy slogan; it felt like a cultural badge of honor, a philosophy I was eager to embrace. As the writer Adam Erace so aptly put it, “Osakans dine with athletic fervor and passion“, and I was ready to join the games.
My mission was to quickly check iconic Dotonbori with its dazzling neon lights, street food and lively atmosphere, before heading to the backstreets of Osaka. From the pictures I had seen, it felt like a tourist trap, great for photo ops, but turned out to be so much more.
Dotonbori After Dark – Iconic Bites and Neon-Lit Feasts
Dotonbori at night was a full-blown sensory assault – a kaleidoscope of giant, flashing neon signs including the iconic Glico Running Man, the enormous, mechanized Kani Doraku crab, and thousands of other delicious treats lined along the 3km long canal that runs through the area. A fellow writer vividly described Dotonbori’s Tombori Riverwalk as “the San Antonio River Walk on cocaine”.
While the Glico Running Man billboard turned LED (using 140,000 LEDs) in 2014 in honour of the three Japan-born researchers who won the same year’s Nobel Physics Prize for their work in developing LEDs, he has been running for over 80 years now.
Dotonbori is an essential first stop for an Osaka food discoveries tour – let’s dig in.
Tackling Takoyaki: Osaka’s Soul Food in a Ball
These “golfball-sized gooey balls of batter studded with octopus chunks” are the city’s undisputed soul food, and Dotonbori is their grand stage. Every stall adds its own unique twist on the batter, sauce, or fillings.
Takoyaki Juhachiban
A name that kept popping up in my research, so this had to be the first stop. They’re renowned for adding sakura shrimp, ginger, and tenkasu (crispy tempura bits) to the batter, a simple yet ingenious touch. The first bite was a revelation: piping hot, the exterior slightly crisp, the inside molten and savory, the octopus tender, and those tenkasu adding a satisfying crunch. The batter has a distinctive creaminess as they add some cow’s milk to the dashi. You will usually see long queues of locals and tourists alike. Definitely get in line here.
Creo-Ru Takoyaki
Next up was a more gourmet version of takoyaki. This is a no-fuss restaurant with a large space and they offer a variety of toppings and sauce combinations, including egg & green onion, grated white radish & ponzu, and truffle salt. I ordered their #1 bestseller: the Onsen Egg and Spring Onion Takoyaki. The crisp, fresh scallions and the rich, runny yolk of the onsen egg offered an interesting contrast to the savory batter. Absolutely delicious but a part of me craved the simplicity of the classic takoyaki.
Beyond takoyaki, Creo-Ru offers other local favourites like, okonomiyaki (pancake), kushikatsu (skewered pork cutlets) and yakisoba (fried noodles). The smell of okonomiyaki being prepared is absolutely irresistible so bring a big appetite.
Dotonbori Kukuru
For a truly different experience, I sought out Dotonbori Kukuru. While famed for their super-soft and gooey Takoyaki with giant-sized octopus pieces, I wanted to try the Akashiyaki – it’s lesser-known cousin.
Hailing from nearby Akashi city, Akashiyaki is made with an egg-rich batter and octopus (as opposed to the flour-based batter of Takoyaki), and are typically dipped in a light dashi (or soup) before eating. It resembles a soft, round dumpling with an eggy, fluffy exterior, and firm octopus interior. Locals often refer to it as “tamagoyaki,” meaning “grilled egg”.
The experience was surprisingly pleasant: a softer, more subtle flavor that allowed the sweetness of the octopus and the delicate umami of the broth to shine. It was a refined contrast to the robust flavors of traditional takoyaki.
I managed a brief chat with one of the staff and something he said really stayed with me. “Takoyaki isn’t just food, you know?” he said, “It’s Osaka’s heart, cooked fresh. Each ball has a bit of our spirit, our history”. This is so true – the history of takoyaki is rooted in Osaka, invented there in 1935 by a street vendor named Tomekichi Endo, evolving from earlier snacks like choboyaki (flattened version of takoyaki) and radioyaki (popular in the 1920s) and influenced by Akashi’s akashiyaki. The current style of eating takoyaki with sauce and mayonnaise became established after the Pacific War.
Do you know?
Tomekichi Endo’s original takoyaki shop, named Aizuya (after his hometown), still exists today in Osaka. They serve the original takoyaki without sauce or mayonnaise. There are 10 Aizuya shops across Osaka & Tokyo, and is available online.
Kushikatsu Daruma: Facing the “Angry Chef”
The unmissable, perpetually scowling face of the chef adorning Kushikatsu Daruma is as much a Dotonbori landmark as the Glico Man. Stepping inside felt like entering a true Osaka institution, a place where tradition is served up on a skewer. ‘Kushi’ means skewer and ‘Katsu’ is deep-fried with breadcrumbs. A large pot or bowl of dark, glistening tonkatsu sauce is shared by many. The golden rule, proclaimed everywhere, is “NO DOUBLE DIPPING!”- the angry chef mascot is there so you never forget this. Need more sauce after your first bite? That’s what the complimentary cabbage leaves are for – use them as tiny, edible scoops.
I was more familiar with and absolutely love Yakitori (charcoal grilled meat & veggies) but Osaka’s beloved, kushikatsu (also known as kushiage) was a delight – a seemingly endless parade of meats, vegetables, seafood, and even cheese, all impaled on bamboo skewers and fried. This might sound similar to the well-known Tempura but the difference is in the batter. Kushikatsu is coated in fine panko breadcrumbs, and deep-fried to a perfect golden crispness giving a crunchy bready taste.
Paired with a frosty Japanese beer, it was dangerously easy to keep ordering. The crispiness of the batter, the juiciness of the fillings – from classic beef and onion to more surprising options like quail eggs – and the tangy-sweet flavour of the dipping sauce are extremely addictive.
The original Kushikatsu Daruma was established in the Shinsekai district of Osaka in 1929, a popular area for affordable eats. You cannot miss the “angry” mascot.
It’s Time for Dessert
Even in a savory paradise like Dotonbori, there’s always room for dessert. I found respite in Melon Pan Ice Cream – a freshly baked Japanese bread with a cookie-like crust and soft interior, filled with a scoop of ice cream. It has a soft, fluffy interior and crisp crust, made of a thin layer of cookie dough that’s scored in a crisscross pattern, giving it a “melon-skin” appearance. The bread by itself has a subtly sweet flavour. With the ice cream filling, it transforms into a yummy ice cream sandwich.
I chose the matcha flavour for my ice cream sandwich. The warmth of the freshly toasted melon pan combined with a generous scoop of cold, creamy matcha ice cream is so uniquely refreshing – what’s not to like? It is the perfect handheld treat for strolling through the neon-lit streets. Just look for the mobile vans, stalls, dotted across Dotonbori area or stop at Melon Bread.
Did you know? – Japan has vending machines that dispense freshly baked Melon Pan ice cream that displays the melon pan being freshly baked and then dispenses with the ice cream filling. I didn’t see this in Dotonbori but they can be found in train stations and convenience stores.
Another sweet discovery was Lord Stow’s Bakery, this small shop with a big reputation comes all the way from Macau where it was originally launched in 1989. If you missed it in Macau, definitely stop here. It is a sweet, unexpected nod to Macau, right in the heart of Dotonbori.
This shop is also called “Dotonbori Honten”, which implies that this location is the main or original branch. Their menu focuses on egg tarts, offering flavours like classic, matcha and chocolate. These Western-style tarts, with their flaky pastry shells cradling a rich, wobbly egg custard, are utterly delicious. I have had these in Macau and it was nostalgic to see the shop in Dotonbori.
Solo Sanctuary: Ichiran Ramen
After the exhilarating sensory overload of Dotonbori’s main street, the individual dining booths at Ichiran Ramen offered a unique and welcome change of pace. Ordering is a streamlined process via a vending machine and a customisation sheet where you specify everything from noodle firmness to broth richness and garlic levels. This “exam ramen” setup, as it’s sometimes called, is perfect for solo diners or those who prefer a more focused, less interactive meal.
This reminded me of the scene in “Touch Your Heart” kdrama where Lee Dong Wook’s character takes Yoo In Na’s character to an “exam ramen” style restaurant to show her how to enjoy a solo meal – ah! Any kdrama fans out there!!
Coming back to Osaka 😃, at Ichiran Ramen, the star of the menu is the tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen. The broth was rich, creamy, and deeply flavorful without being overly heavy. The noodles, cooked exactly to my preference, had a satisfying chew. It was a comforting, almost meditative experience, allowing me to fully savor each element of the carefully crafted bowl. It’s easy to see why Ichiran has garnered such a devoted international following; it’s a haven for those who simply prefer to be alone with their thoughts and an exceptional bowl of ramen.
Final Notes
Dotonbori satisfies a wide spectrum of foodie desires, from a simple checklist item to a more profound tasting journey, truly embodying the spirit of kuidaore – there’s always something new, different, or moreish to try, tempting you to eat until you (happily) drop.
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