South of downtown Osaka’s dazzling modern Minami area and the Dotonbori canal, is Shinsekai, a district that literally means “New World.” Ironically, stepping into Shinsekai feels like stepping decisively into the past. This neighbourhood, originally developed in 1912 with grand ambitions, now clings fiercely to its Showa-era (1926-1989) nostalgia. The iconic Tsutenkaku Tower, a local Eiffel Tower replica that was once Asia’s tallest structure, still stands guard. The streets are a tapestry of retro signage, old-school game arcades blaring tinny music, and an atmosphere thick with history. For a tour of Osakan culinary delights, Shinsekai needs to be on your itinerary. Many legendary dishes were born in this district.
As dusk began to settle and the paper lanterns cast a warm, inviting glow, I felt like an extra in an old Japanese film, the air humming with a different kind of energy – less frantic than Dotonbori, more deeply steeped in local life and bygone charm.
Janjan Yokocho: Arcade Charms and Hidden Delights
At the heart of Shinsekai’s local flavor is Janjan Yokocho, a narrow, covered shopping arcade whose name is said to evoke the “jan jan” sound of shamisen music that once filled its corridors. This bustling, narrow alley is a vibrant artery of local life, lined with unpretentious, often family-run eateries, traditional go and shogi (Japanese chess) clubs, and a palpable sense of community. Reaching there at noon, as I ambled down its length, the scent of grilled meats and sweet sauces from kushikatsu stalls mingled with the clatter of retro-style gaming parlours and the cheerful shouts of vendors. There are tiny, dimly lit izakayas (Japanese-style-bars) where locals were already gathered, sharing stories over sake and simple, hearty dishes. It was here I stumbled upon Daiko Sushi Minamiten, an unassuming sushi spot that was perfect for a quick, cheap, and cheerful bite. Squeezed onto a counter stool, I rubbed elbows with regulars, enjoying fresh, no-nonsense sushi in a truly local setting.
Kushikatsu Chronicles: Beyond Daruma
Shinsekai proudly claims to be the birthplace of kushikatsu. While Kushikatsu Daruma is a Dotonbori icon, the original shops are here: the main shop just 2 mins from the Tsutenkaku Tower and the other within Janjan Yokocho. However, the real adventure in Shinsekai is exploring its other long-standing kushikatsu institutions.
Yaekatsu
My first stop was Yaekatsu, a name whispered with reverence by those in the know. They have been serving up deep-fried skewers since 1949. The atmosphere was decidedly no-frills, with bright fluorescent lighting reminiscent of a classroom rather than a chic eatery. But no one comes to Yaekatsu for the decor; they come for the food and the lively counter-side experience. I snagged a seat at the counter, utterly mesmerised by the efficient movements of the cooks as they dredged skewers in batter and plunged them into the hot oil. The batter was light and crisp, the ingredients fresh. The shiso (perilla leaf) wrapped pork meatballs were a particular highlight – herbal, juicy, and utterly delicious.
They are famously strict about their “no smartphones while eating” and “no double-dipping” policies, adding to the authentic, focused experience. It was a fantastic, solo-friendly immersion into a true Osaka tradition.
Best part about travel is connecting with locals and I struck up a conversation (a mix of broken Japanese, English, and enthusiastic gestures) with an elderly gentleman beside me. He gestured with his skewer towards the bustling kitchen, “This is real Osaka. simple, good, honest. Been coming here since I was a boy. The taste hasn’t changed, and neither has the spirit.”
This pretty much captured the essence of Shinsekai!
Osho Club
For a slightly different vibe, I visited Osho Club. Housed in a former shogi club, it retains much of its historical charm. The original wooden structure, old notices on the walls listing seating fees and game schedules are as they were and the second floor has well-used shogi boards as tabletops. Reborn as a kushikatsu haven, it offers more photogenic and arguably higher-quality skewers, like the giant “Emperor shrimp” and a luxurious salmon skewer topped generously with salmon roe. The ambiance was unique, a fascinating blend of an old-world gaming hall and a contemporary izakaya, offering a creative, slightly more upscale twist on the classic kushikatsu.
Its easy to just sit there soaking in the vibe, good food and history but remember, Osho Club has a 90-minute limit. In the last 30 minutes, last order reminders and bill will start coming in. To avoid feeling rushed or disappointed, time your stay.
Sennariya Coffee
No culinary exploration of Janjan Yokocho would be complete without trying Mixed Juice. At the southern entrance of the alleyway is Sennariya Coffee, the legendary birthplace of this uniquely Osakan beverage.
In 1948 (Showa 23rd), the first generation owner, Mr. Ichiro Tsunekawa, established a fruit shop that would be the predecessor of Janjan Yokocho. It was Mr. Tsunekawa’s ingenuity to use overripe fruit when its sweetness is maximum and offer them freshly made at the storefront, inventing the classic “Mixed Juice” – a refreshing, sherbet-like concoction of various fruits blended with milk – a sweet ode to the Japanese philosophy – “Use the things to the end without waste”.
The innovative creation earned praise from local customers, known for their discerning taste in food. In 1960, the business model shifted to a café, and alongside “reikō” (iced coffee), mixed juice became one of the two flagship menu items.
Even today, it continues to be a local favourite and a tradition you cannot miss!
Shinsekai Signature Dishes: More Than Just Skewers
While kushikatsu reigns supreme, Shinsekai offers other B-grade gourmet delights.
Tonpeiyaki
On my walk through the district’s alleys, I encountered Tonpeiyaki, a comforting pork, cabbage and egg omelette (or pancake), generously drizzled with a savory brown sauce. It was a warm, satisfying hug in a dish – crispy bits of pork belly and sautéed cabbage enveloped in a tender omelette, a perfect example of Osaka’s unpretentious soul food.
“Tonpeiyaki” is a teppanyaki dish (teppan = iron plate, yaki = grilled, broiled, pan-fried). When you’re in Shinsekai, look for restaurants with a large “teppan” (iron griddle) sign. You will find the dish here.
Most restaurants will have picture menus where you can spot “Tonpeiyaki”. Many traditional Japanese pubs (izakayas) in Shinsekai also serve popular local dishes like Tonpeiyaki.
Japanese Izakaya: If you see red lanterns, a noren curtain (short curtains split into two or more panels hanging in the doorway), and a glimpse of a cozy counter inside, especially down a smaller street or alley, you’ve very likely found an izakaya! Don’t be afraid to peek in; the atmosphere is usually very welcoming.
Doteyaki
Many kushikatsu places also pride themselves on their Doteyaki, a rich and savory stew of beef tendon slow-simmered in miso and mirin. At Kushikatsu Taisho, a small, cozy spot, the doteyaki simmers for an impressive 8-10 hours, and is exceptionally tender and deeply flavorful.
Opened in 2019, Kushikatsu Taisho is located at the foot of Tsutenkaku (just about 1 min away). In addition to the “proud doteyaki’”, they offer a wide range of skewers from the classic “kushikatsu” to the creative “duck and onion meatballs” and even “condensed milk strawberry skewer” for dessert. The kushikatsu sauce is usually served in a bottle on the table, if you crave a more non-traditional experience.
Journoverse Special Pick
Higekatsu
An absolute hidden gem and a local favourite. Higekatsu is not exactly in Shinsekai, but needs a special mention here for their Kushikatsu menu and especially Doteyaki with Konjac that is prepared with white miso soup and has a sweet flavour.
Located near Nishinari/Hanazonochó station, just southwest of Shinsekai (20 mins walk from Janjan Yokocho), this beloved local restaurant is so popular that many people are willing to make the extra trip to visit. Established in 1960, the third-generation owner continues to carry on the original flavour.
The restaurant has only 18 seats at the L-shaped counter and the display case is reminiscent of a sushi restaurant showcasing carefully prepared ingredients beautifully and neatly lined up. For Kushikatsu, beyond the standard meat, fish, and vegetables, the restaurant offers seasonal skewers that tantalise the senses. In spring, enjoy firefly squid and bamboo shoots, while in summer, indulge in conger eel. Autumn and winter bring oysters and ginkgo nuts.
The skewers are lightly battered and fried in lard, resulting in a crispy texture that perfectly complements the high-quality ingredients sourced from the Kizu Wholesale Market in Osaka. The thin batter is reminiscent of the Kanto region and covered in breadcrumbs. The vegetable and fish skewers are large but the meat skewers are smaller in size and you can order about 15-20 skewers per person that are crispy on the outside, fluffy inside and light on your stomach.
Sit at the counter, witness the excitement of the skewers being fried right in front of you, and savour the flavours of the changing seasons. As you fill out your order slip, remember to add the Doteyaki which is a must-try.
Highly recommended by locals for the perfect blend of affordable price, delicious taste, elegant cozy interior, relaxed Osakan atmosphere and friendly customer service.
Shinsekai – The Culinary History
Shinsekai’s “retro” appeal is far more than just an aesthetic; it’s a living, breathing ecosystem. The district’s initial boom in the early 20th century, followed by a period of relative decline, paradoxically helped preserve its distinct Showa-era character. This has allowed long-standing, often family-run establishments like Yaekatsu (since 1949), Kushikatsu Daruma (founded in 1929, with its main store here), and Sennariya Coffee (since 1948) to survive and thrive. These businesses continue to serve traditional Osaka specialties, often using recipes and methods passed down through generations. The presence of old-fashioned game arcades and the unique atmosphere of Janjan Yokocho further enhance this “time capsule” feeling. Shinsekai offers a tangible connection to Osaka’s past and a strong sense of local identity.
Furthermore, the culinary scene in Shinsekai, dominated by affordable, hearty “B-grade gourmet” and communal dining styles directly reflects the area’s working-class roots. Dishes like kushikatsu, doteyaki, and mixed juice were historically inexpensive and filling, designed to cater to laborers. The “no double-dipping” rule for kushikatsu and the often-cramped, counter-style seating in many establishments, similar to Higekatsu, naturally encourage a sense of shared experience and casual interaction among diners. The lively, unpretentious social atmosphere is a key part of Shinsekai’s enduring charm.
For solo travelers and backpackers, this welcoming and communal environment, coupled with its affordability, makes it easier to feel connected, observe local life and step back in time.
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